Interview With Watch Journalist, Olivier Muller

Olivier Muller is a passionate watch expert. He has served as a consultant and journalist for almost 15 years and is an expert watchmaker. In 2008, Muller founded Delos Communications, which focuses solely on luxury wristwatches. Muller is also a contributing author to WorldTempus. Entrenched in the world of luxury watches all day, Muller has deep knowledge of Swiss timepieces. He is an avid watch collector and enjoys writing articles about watches. Muller was more than willing to dedicate some of his time to answering our questions and talking watches with us.

What is your favorite watch for everyday wear? What do you like about it? Mechanics or style?

It’s my Dodane Type 21. First, because chronographs are my one and true love when we talk about watches. My personal collection is made almost exclusively of chronographs, both vintage and modern. Second, because what is really important to me is the legitimacy of the brand in this chronograph field. Only a few brands have it. Louis Moinet, of course : the man invented the chronograph, in 1816. Zenith, obviously, emperor of the modern chronograph. Breitling, naturally, for being the trusted partner of pilots for ages.

So is Dodane 1857 ? Yes. But with something more : a family soul. I did not buy my Type 21 from a retailer. Cédric Dodane gave it to me. Mr Dodane himself, 5^th generation in charge of the company, still 100% family owned and independent. Dodane 1857 is not *just* a brand. It’s a family of proud owners, a club of pilots, a family defending values of French horlogerie along with the best Swiss made qualities. Dodane worked for countless number of major brands. You’d be surprised of what they have patented or who they supplied… It’s a real watch for connoisseurs, something very unique, with a heart and a soul.

 

What is the most sentimental watch in your collection? How did it come into your possession?

A personal gift from someone I truly admire, Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO Ateliers Louis Moinet. It’s a Mecanograph. As simple as elegant. When I discovered the brand, Louis Moinet, I did not understand it at the first sight. I was wondering who was this guy who just cut its dials in two. It took me quite a while to understand the brand’s direction. A blend of technics & aesthetics, something very unique. It’s not a watch, it’s a whole universe, but you have to spend some time on it to understand its story and where Jean-Marie leads it. As of today, it’s still the one of the most promising brands in the watch industry. We all should keep in mind that major brands create in a decade what independent watchmakers make in a year. See MB&F, Arnold & Son, Hysek, De Bethune, Greubel Forsey, and obviously Louis Moinet. They are not only watchmakers – they are inventors. When I have my Louis Moinet on the wrist, I not only have part of history on my skin. I also hold part of the future.

 

What are you excited to wear next, or what timepiece is the next to add to your collection?

I’m not a “single target” kind of person. I love hundreds of watches, I’d buy thousands if I could! However, I’m a long time die hard fan of the Grande Seconde by Jaquet Droz. A design that is still up-to-date, without any change, for 250 years, really impresses me!

 

Is there a timepiece out there that you would never wear, but respect nonetheless?

Patek Philippe obviously. Because, you know, it’s a Patek. No discussion. However, too classical for me. I not only have to admire a watch, I have to be truely excited by it, to be touched by it. It’s a question of feeling. That’s the same with german watches, such as A. Lange & Söhne. Art pieces indeed, but no love, no feeling. These are ‘cold’ watches for me.

 

What trends are you most excited about from Basel? What trends are you ready to put to bed?

The great return of affordable watches. Industry seems to have understood that no, definitly not, 10k for a three hands watch is not “affordable”. There’s a way for great quality AND a reasonable price. Longines, Zenith, Eterna, and many others, serve this goal with a real efficiency. That’s a very good thing, a parallel and positive effect of the global economic downturn.

 

What are your thoughts on the Apple Watch? Will it spell impending doom for the Swiss watch industry or is it a flash in the proverbial pan?

Obviously a massive success in the coming three years, and then weariness. It’s a gadget. No soul, no history, 24 hours of autonomy, no repair, sold by dozens of millions. However, interesting as it will put something on the wrist of young people who did not even know what a watch was. And young people will grow older, become adults…to finally buy something more in tune with their status and the image they want to give of themselves – hence a mechanical watch. A status where a plastic gadget like the Apple Watch will definitely not have its place anymore.

 

Follow Olivier Muller:
Twitter: @O_Muller