Watch Buying Guide

Price

It’s all about price, right? Well, when buying a luxury watch that’s sort of true. Price is obviously a huge consideration, but other things matter as well. However, price is a good place to start when narrowing down the many options out there. We have divided the luxury watch market into four segments: $1,000 – $5,000, $5,000 – $10,000, $10,000 – $25,000 and $25,000+. Anything below $1,000 is not really considered a “luxury watch” for most in the watch industry. Historically, most brands dwelled in just one or two of these price points. However, in an effort to appeal to the masses, many brands have developed models which may appeal to price points outside of that brand’s norm. This is an interesting tactic that was initiated in order to create greater brand loyalty and one that can allow a customer to stay with the brand no matter where the customer is economically. Some brands have adopted this approach more than others. While some brands (Patek, A. Lange, etc) have stood true to their high end segment.

 

Movement

The guts of a watch are collectively known as the Movement. Like many things in life, with a watch “its what’s on the inside that counts.” The engineering marvel that has led mankind to capture time is displayed in the movement. For years, watches were mechanical, meaning they relied on traditional parts, springs, coils and metals in order to operate. However, in the 70’s quartz technology was invented which essentially powered a watch with a battery. Most watch enthusiasts refuse to even discuss the quartz craze out of embarrassment. While a quartz watch certainly lacks the engineering marvel of its mechanical counterpart, it is extremely accurate and easy to maintain. Many people prefer a quartz watch to a mechanical. However the true collector/enthusiast remains true to the mechanical traditions.

Purpose of Wear

A watch must be purchased with its intended use in mind. After helping many customers identify a watch to purchase, we have broken down the intended uses into three categories

• Active wear: This means the watch will be used and abused. Swimming, golfing, showering, camping, doing yard work, etc. This type of person never takes off his watch – no matter what he is doing. Fortunately, there are several watches out there for such an active individual.
• Normal daily wear: A daily wearer typically wears his watch to work (light activity) and places his watch on the dresser when going to bed. The watch is removed when performing activities like swimming, outside work, and other commanding activities.
• Formal dress occasions: This is the type of watch that is typically stored in a safe until a special event or occasion demands its presence. Such a watch is not intended to endure arduous tasks.

Look

There are lots of different looks when it comes to watches. We have found that the easiest way for an individual to choose a watch is to look at lots of different types until that perfect one catches his eye. We have broken down the look of a watch into six different categories:

• Classic Vintage: This is perhaps one of our favorite types of watches. Typically, these are watches from the 60’s and 70’s and even 80’s which exude the creative spirit of that era. These watches tend to have a chronograph or subdial feature and are highlighted with bright colors. See examples.
• Modern Dive: There is nothing like a great dive watch. As the popularity of this watch type has increased, just about every brand has attempted to create one. See examples.
• Modern Sport: A “sport watch” means a lot of things to a lot of people. But the easiest definition of sports watch is as follows: A sport watch is a watch that is intended for normal day to day wear and often includes some type of chronograph feature. It has some type of segment inspiration to it (flight, driving, chronograph) that separates it from its Modern minimalist and Modern Classic counterparts. See examples.
• Modern Minimalist: This watch is simple and free of any major complications. See examples.
• Modern Classic: This is similar to the Modern Minimalist category, but with incredible complications. Typically this adds a significant amount to the price. See examples.
• Heavy Jewelry: Many watches come adorned with jewelry. These types of watches are typically revered more for their outward beauty than for the inner movement. See examples.
• Fashion: Some watches are simple fashion statements. They are more about the look and the brand than they are about the watch itself. See examples.

Size

When selecting a watch, there are many different sizes from which to choose. Watch sizes have tended to get bigger. In the 40’s and 50’s watches in the 30-35mm range were common. Currently, there are several watches begin sold that exceed 45mm, though we have that trend revert. To see a detailed chart of the various watch sizes to choose from, please visit our Watch Sizing Chart.

 

Functions

	Chronograph: The chronograph feature is perhaps one of the most common features on a watch. It allows the wearer to essentially time an event. There are several different types of chronographs, but the most common chronograph is seen on the left. In order to operate the chronograph, the wearer will first push the top pusher. This will start the chronograph hand. By pushing the same pusher again, it will stop the chronograph hand, thus telling its wearer the length of the event being timed. If the wearer wishes to continue telling time, then he can do so by pushing the same pusher once more. Otherwise, to reset the chronograph to zero, the wearer simply pushes the bottom pusher.
	Moonphase: Some watches, typically higher end pieces, are equipped with a moonphase function. This allows the wearer to monitor the current phase of the moon. It is commonly agreed that this function is more aesthetic than practical. However, at the very least, it certainly makes for a beautiful dial.
	Power Reserve: Many watch enthusiasts appreciate a power reserve function because it indicates how much remaining power the watch has before it ceases to operate. This allows the wearer to reengage the watch as needed. Many watches have 48 and 72 hour power reserves, with some fetching 96+hours of power reserve.
	Date: Perhaps one of the most basis features of  a nice watch is the date function. There are many ways the date can be displayed, but the simplest and most common is for it to appear in a window near the 3 o’clock.
	Alarm: An alarm is an exciting feature on a watch. Typically a watch with an alarm feature has a dedicated hand on the dial, pointed to the time in which the alarm is to sound. So if the alarm is set for 8:00, then it will sound at 8:00pm and 8:00am. There tends to be an activation switch where the alarm can be turned on or off – or alternatively, a dedicated crown where the alarm can be wound and therefore activated.
	Perpetual Calendar: One of the most incredible features a watch can have is for it to be a perpetual calendar. This means that the date of the watch will automatically change and will know to account for leap years. It can actually be somewhat difficult to tell whether a watch is a perpetual calendar or not – however one dead giveaway is that a perpetual calendar typically has the year on it, or a 1,2,3,4 (I,II, III, IV) on it to indicate how many years have lapsed since the last leap year.
	Tourbillon: The tourbillon is known as the “king of complications.” It is an engineering marvel. The purpose of the tourbillon is actually somewhat complicated, but to put it simply it displaces the effects of gravity on the accuracy of a watch. It is only found in the most expensive and rare of watches due to the complexity of construction.

 

10 More Things to Consider:

1)       Chronometer certification

The Swiss certification authority, COSC, will deem certain watches to be certified chronometers. This means that the watch has undergone rigid tests over a period of several days and passed the standards of the COSC. In particular, the movement is tested for accuracy at various positions. In order to be COSC certified, the movement cannot be losing more than 4 seconds per day or gaining more than 6 seconds per day. Certified chronometers are deemed to be reliable given the rigid testing undergone.

 

2)       Value retention

Certain brands hold their value more than others. Therefore, if you ever intend to sell your watch, it is important to understand the varying depreciation levels by brand. We wrote a great blog exploring this very topic.

 

3)       Open caseback

Given the fact the movement is considered the most important part of the watch, many watch owners like to be able to view it through an open caseback. This feature allows one to further appreciate the ingenuity of the movement. Often, the difference in price on a watch depends on the complexity and complication of the movement. Therefore it only makes sense that it should be visually appreciated.

 

4)       Brand name

Do you want a watch that is recognized by the general public (ie Rolex), or are you the type of person that likes to own an off brand that isn’t known to the mainstream market? This is certainly something to consider when purchasing a watch. Brands like Rolex, Breitling, Tag Heuer, Omega and Cartier are very well known. For such wearers there is a solidity and safety to selecting a known brand.  However brands like A Lange & Sohne, MB&F, Arnold & Son, Zodiac and Glashutte arent as well known. For these owners, there is a secret subtlety to knowing there are only a select few who would appreciate what is on your wrist. Our advice is to try both before making a decision.

 

5)       Movement type

Many watch movements are constructed by a third party. The most popular of which is ETA. The famed ETA 7750 movement appears in many watches. Some brands however are known for producing their own movements, and this is an important consideration of many watch owners. Such brands are Patek Philippe, Jaeger Lecoultre, Audemars Piguet, among others. There is a purity to buying a watch that’s movement is produced in-house. With that said, some of the best watches out there have third party produced movements.

 

6)       Clasp vs Buckle

You will want to pay attention to the buckle/clasp of a watch. Make sure to try both and get a feel for what you are most comfortable with. Those who prefer a buckle tend to like it for its traditional and simplistic look. Those who prefer a clasp do so because they often find a buckle clumsy and dangerous (ie it can be easy to drop the watch). While in a store, test both versions when making a decision.

 

7)       Bracelet vs Band

Some watch wearers prefer a bracelet, others prefer a band. Some like both, and switch them out depending on the season or occasion. Our preference is to do just this, assuming it’s the appropriate watch. Some watches just don’t go with a band, others just don’t go with a bracelet – so make sure to pay particular note not only to the look, but also to the fit. Is there unnecessary space between the lugs? Does the band/bracelet sit above the actual watch when on your arm?

 

8)       Ticking noise

One of the most overlooked criteria when purchasing a watch is the amount of noise it makes. This oversight is often made because the purchase is being made inside of a store or mall, where it is impossible to ascertain the noise of the movement. However, too many times the euphoria of a new watch purchase is deflated once the wearer sits at his desk and is left to hearing the annoying ticking of the watch. Some watches are louder than others – so make sure to take the watch to a quiet place and listen quietly.

 

9)       Lumination

Many watches have lamination painted on the hands and/or dial. The purpose of which is to make the watch more visible to its wearer in dark situations. Many individuals are shocked when they notice a lack of lamination on the watch when they turn the lights off for the first time after purchasing a watch. If this is important to you, make sure to indicate such before you purchase the watch.

Feeling overwhelmed and don’t know what watch to buy? Here is a guide to help you choose the right watch for you!

Take a look at our guide on How to Buy a Watch.