Developments in watchmaking directly tie to progress in our world. As we evolve, watches evolve too. One model that perfectly exemplifies this connection between watches and our culture is Rolex’s GMT Master. The GMT Master is a Rolex watch that has transformed over the years. We compare the GMT Master vs. GMT Master II and the innovations of both.
The 1950s aviation boom resulted in increased nationwide and intercontinental travel for business and pleasure. It was an exciting yet demanding time for pilots as they began to journey through different time zones more frequently. As a result, they needed an instrument that could display time in multiple time zones at once.
In 1954, Rolex collaborated with Pan Am. They set out to create a watch that would meet the evolving needs of pilots and avid travelers alike. Together, they developed the GMT Master. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, which is located in Greenwich London and marks the original median that sets the time zones around the world. All aviation planning was required to use GMT time. This made the Rolex GMT Master an indispensable tool for both pilots and frequent fliers. The GMT Master was the first wristwatch using a fourth hand and corresponding 24-hour bezel to display time in multiple time zones. It also became the official watch of Pan Am.
Rolex adapted the original GMT Master, Reference 6542, from their Datejust Turn-o-Graph. It featured an updated movement, two-tone 24-hour bezel to distinguish day and nighttime hours, and fourth hand. For many years, the design of the GMT Master only saw minor updates. In 1956, Rolex replaced the original Bakelite bezel with a sturdier metal, and in 1959, they added a crown guard. In addition, Rolex incorporated a number of style variations over the years. They initially designed the two-tone bezel for function in Pan Am’s signature colors, red and blue. Today, this iconic variation has a new identity as the Pepsi. Since then, the GMT Master has become famous for its array of bezel hues, which have adopted other quirky nicknames.
In 1983, Rolex made their most significant update to the model. That year, the GMT Master II was born with the Reference 16760. When first comparing the original GMT Master vs. GMT Master II, they may look nearly identical. However, there are subtle differences. Rolex only offered the original GMT Master with a stainless steel bracelet. With the Rolex GMT Master II, they created more options, including stainless steel, 18kt yellow gold, and two-tone. However, the most distinguishing features between the GMT Master and GMT Master II are functional.
The GMT Master II features an all-new movement, the Caliber 3085. It features a quickset hour hand that’s independently adjustable. This allows the wearer to set the local time without stopping the second, minute, or fourth 24-hour GMT hand. In other words, the GMT Master II can display the time in not just two but three time zones simultaneously. The all-new movement is slightly heftier than the original, making the GMT Master II a bit bulkier in size. This thicker build gave the GMT Master II yet another nickname, the “Fat Lady.”
Over the years, Rolex has continued to develop the GMT Master II. For instance, in 2005, Rolex developed the Cerachrom bezel, which is virtually scratchproof and less affected by exposure to sunlight. Two years later, Rolex introduced the first completely redesigned version of the GMT Master II, the Reference 116710. It comes equipped with a Triplock crown, anti-reflective cyclops lens, green 24-hour hand, maxi dial, and ceramic bezel. In addition, it features a new bracelet and movement, as well as a Rolex engraving on the inner bezel ring. Today, the Rolex GMT Master II collection also features an upgraded, in-house, chronometer certified movement: the Caliber 3186. It contains Rolex’s Parachrom Hairspring. Most watches are vulnerable to magnetic fields and other shocks. To counter this, Rolex invented this hairspring, which is made of a paramagnetic alloy. Thinner than human hair, it’s ten times more resistant to shock than the average hairspring and impervious to magnetic fields.
Though Rolex discontinued the original GMT Master in 1999, both models continue to be two of Rolex’s most beloved watches. When deciding if you should choose the GMT Master vs. GMT Master II, there are a few things to consider. If you’re looking for a reliable, pre-owned pilot watch, the GMT Master is an excellent option. Despite the prevalence of the GMT Master II, the original is still a popular choice for collectors. Special variations of the model have even gone on to command high prices at auction. For example, Marlon Brando brought fame to the GMT Master, Reference 1675 in the film Apocalypse Now. For decades, the watch was lost until recently in 2019. That year, it miraculously emerged in a family dresser and sold for $1.85 million. However, if you want a newer model with increased functionality and more style options, the GMT Master II is a stellar pilot watch. Over the years, the brand has continually updated the model with new colorways, like the Rolex 116710 Batman in 2013. More recently, they introduced the first GMT Master II to feature a meteorite dial in 2019. No matter which model you select for your collection, you can’t go wrong. Each version embodies Rolex’s pioneering spirit and passion for aviators and adventurers.
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